This is a super easy pattern I’m putting out there. I named it “Tsu” (like ‘Sue’) because it’s uses a Japanese lace motif, and because one of my Japanese friends from high school “Tsubasa” had about the cutest clothes I’ve ever seen. It made me want to go to Japan just to get clothes that were cute and fit.
It’s easily adjustable for any size, and can be worn a multiple of ways. Now let’s get down to business.
Worsted weight yarn. I used Misti Alpaca in the hand painted color: leather. For the size I made (let’s call it petite) I used 327 yards (exactly 150 grams). If you intend on adding some repeats to the lace section as I’ll lay out for you in a minute, you’ll want to have a bit more yarn on hand.
Size US 7 (4.5mm) circular needle (at least a 24 inch cord or longer). (check your gauge. I’m a loose knitter, and use size 7s where most patterns require an 8).
Gauge (unblocked): 18 stictches = 4inches
Crochet hook: Size I (5.5mm) Don’t freak out you knitters. It’s just some basic single crochet. You won’t be don’t anything fancy. I suppose if you wanted to modify to do an I-cord edging instead of a crochet edging, but I really think this is easier and faster.
Buttons: If you want your wrap/cowl/capelet thingy to be exactly like mine because you think I’m that cool, then I’ll tell you I used 6 wooden buttons that were 1 inch in diameter. However, you could easily use bigger or smaller buttons. Also, if you intend to make it longer, you’ll need more buttons. You could even just do 2 buttons at the top…but I digress.
Needle and thread to sew on the buttons.
How to vary the size:
The size given is for petite people like me. After blocking (with a bit of stretching) it’s roughly 36 inches wide. If you want to add another wavy repeat (2.75 inches) just cast on an extra 11 stitches, and work the pattern as written. If you want it to be even wider, you can add another 11, or 22, or 33 (you get the point) stitches. I would also recommend that if you do cast on extra stitches, you might consider making it longer too. You’ll just want to add another repeat or so of the lace pattern before you get to the ribbed edge.
(Option) How to make it seamless:
If you’d like just a circular cowl, and want to omit the buttons and make it just one big tube, you’ll want to take 1 stitch away from your cast on number, and join in the round from the beginning. The first 2 rows you’ll do in garter stitch in the round (knit one row, purl the next) instead of garter stitch flat (knit every row). Then you’ll want to decrease 2 stitches (not one right after the other…say one on each side of your tube) as you move into the 3×3 rib. During the lace section, you’ll skip the first stitch in each row, and every odd row will look like this: *K10, p1; repeat from *
Abbreviations to remember:
(WS) -wrong side
(RS) – right side
YO- yarn over
SSK-slip 2 stitches, than knit them together through the back
K2tog- knit 2 stitches together.
Cast on 144 stitches. (See note above on sizing)
Knit 3 rows.
Begin lace pattern:
Row 1 (WS) and all other odd rows: K1, *p10, k1; repeat from *
Rows 2 and 4: P1, *k10, p1; repeat from *
Rows 6, 10, and 14: P1, *k1, (yo, k1) 3 times, (ssk) 3 times, p1; repeat from *
Rows 8 and 12: P1, *k1 (k1, yo) 3 times, (ssk) 3 times, p1; repeat from *
Rows 16 and 18: repeat rows 2 and 4
Rows 20, 24, and 28: P1, *(k2tog) 3 times, (k1, yo) 3 times, k1, p1; repeat from *
Rows 22 and 26: P1, *(k2tog) 3 times, (yo, k1) 3 times, k1, p1; repeat from *
Repeat rows 1-28 3 times. (add more repeats for longer length)
Next row (WS): *K3, p3; repeat from *
Work in 3×3 rib for 14 rows. Cast off in rib.
The purpose of this side edge is to add some button holes. If you line up the opening, you’ll see I put my crochet edge on the left side, but there’s no reason behind that other than that was the side my yarn was still attached to, and I didn’t want to cut and weave in any more ends than I had to.
Using the loop left in casting off, take the crochet hook and single crochet in the next 2 stitches. Then do 3 plain chains, and skip 3 loops on the work that you’d normally crochet into.
Single crochet in the next 15 loops. *Chain 3, skipping 3 loops, single crochet 8. Repeat from *
The main idea behind this crocheting is to put a little button hole on the low and high points of the wave. My numbers aren’t magic here, nor are they the law. You may be able to just wing this, and skip counting all together. Be sure if you’re using a different size button to make sure that the “chain 3” sections are big enough, or small enough for the buttons you want to use. You can do as small as “chain 1” for small buttons, or “chain 10” for ginormous buttons. Then send me a picture of that button, because I’d like to see it. 😉
Now sew on buttons on the opposite side of the button holes. I did not put a button on the very bottom, because I thought it was unnecessary.
And now for all the fun little disclaimers and answers to questions that may be asked. You may totally sell any items made from this pattern, as long as you made it, and not a sweat shop of little children. Of course, if you actually have a sweat shop of little children, you probably have no problem stealing patterns either and I’m probably wasting my breath.
Also, if you’re a yarn shop and wish to distribute this pattern you have my permission to do so. A couple of requests, though:
1) Give a source to where you got it on the physical copy. Even handwriting in my blog address will work.
2) Don’t sell it. Give it away. I’m giving it away for free, so it would sort of be ripping people off, and I’m not fond of that.
3) Let me know that you’re distributing it, or using it for a class. I’m not going to get mad if you don’t but you will TOTALLY make my day if you do. I’ve gotten several emails asking permission from yarn shops to use my Clara cowl, and I walked on clouds each time I received such a request. So spread the joy.